Samples of batik garments can be traced back to early India and Egypt, where the textiles were a part of the trading establishment. Interestingly proof of this was found by archaeologists in the Pharaoh’s tomb, in the form of a wax indigo cloth dated around 5000 BC that indicated the use of wax in textile production back then.

The oldest batik textile dating from the 5th century was found in the Toraja Regency on the Sulawesi island.

Fresco of   Isis and Nefertari, from the tomb of Nefertari, New Kingdom   (image courtesy www.meisterdrucke.us)

From 5th to 8th century, the wax-resist dyeing technique was adopted and used in some Asian areas, like Indonesia, China and Japan.

Image credit: Rijksmuseum/CC0 1.0 Universal/Wikimedia Commons

According to scholars, it has different origins. The word batik is derived from ‘ambatik,’ meaning ‘a cloth with little dots’, where the suffix ‘tik’ means a small dot, point or drop. It may have also originated from the Javanese word tritik, referring to a resist process for dyeing. It includes giving the fabrics and textiles various designs, using tying and sewing methods before dyeing or waxing the cloth. The Javanese also call the making of batik as ‘mbatik manah,’ meaning ‘drawing a batik design on the heart’.

Batik prints have been a part of Indonesian heritage since the 5th century. The wax-resistant dyeing technique has been used to depict the entire human life cycle — birth, marriage and death 

It was initially worn by royal families only, when special motif designations, known as batik parang, were assigned to each member of the lineage such as rulers, princes and noblemen.

Later, it depicted different provinces and social castes in the Asian country, through unique patterns.

During the Han (220-206 BC) and Sui Dynasty (AD 581-618) reigns, artisans in China largely used the batik techniques as a means of livelihood. Even today, one can find Chinese minorities like Miao, Bouyei and Gejia, based in the Guizhou province, still using traditional batik techniques to produce their fabrics.

Exceptionally fine work from Buei, Southwest China (image courtesy www.batikguild.org.uk) 

In Japan, batik was extensively used by ancient textile artisans of the Nara Period (AD 710-784) and the Heian Period (AD 794-1185).

From 9th to the 15th century, many textiles were traded between Indonesian royals and merchants from India, Arab and Gujarat. It is said that batik cloth was also used in bartering.

From 16th to 19th century with the rise of Islamic kingdoms during this time, batik experienced many changes with respect to its philosophy and motifs. Some concepts having Hindu or Buddhist relevance were adapted to Islam, keeping the essence of the traditional motif intact. The purpose of this was to align the art with Islamic values, social customs and hierarchies prevalent during that era.

However, during the Dutch VOC (Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie) era, towards the 20th century, Indonesian Javanese batik became an essential commodity for African and European merchants. Based on this, historians assumed that European colonials spread the wax-resist dyeing technique to other places in the world.

Javanese batik. IO/Jessica Easvy   (image courtesy www.observerid.com)

20th century onwards

Over the years, batik has become a common cultural practice, fostering relationships between countries in the South East Asia belt. They include Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam, Philippines, Brunei, Myanmar (Burma), Cambodia and Laos.

Hmong women wearing traditional pleated skirts with embroidery and batik for New Year, Thailand (image courtesy www.batikguild.org.uk)

Owing to the efforts put forth by the Indonesians, batik was inscribed as UNESCO intangible cultural heritage of humanity, in September 2009. Through this inscription, many textile artisans across the globe are motivated to safeguard their cultural textile heritage.

Additionally, Indonesians are encouraged to wear batik clothes to connect with the nation’s heritage. And so, every Friday, you can see both locals and tourists donning beautiful batik garments with pride. Even people living elsewhere wear the intricately designed patterns on special occasions.

Traditionally, batik was used to make sarongs, but due to the availability of more resources nowadays, artists create batik paintings, home furnishings, household accessories, tablecloths, cushion covers as well as exotic and modern sarongs.

In recent times, batik is customised as per the fabric and wax used. Traditional dyes have been replaced by chemical ones. Even the hand-written technique known as batik tulis has been replaced with batik cap, as per which special copper stamps are used to imprint batik on fabrics.

 Indigo-dyed batik fabric, Thailand  (image courtesy www.batikguild.org.uk)

Apart from cotton, which is considered to be the main batik fabric, other fabrics used in the batik industry include silk, rayon and linen; traditional tools like Tjanting and Canting are supported by paint brushes and droppers in developing batik.

Various types of wax and pastes can be used to create batik patterns like microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, pine resin, sugar syrup, plaster of Paris starches and Bengal gram flour or cold water starch.

In the studio, I used the cold batik technique to create weightless chiffon scarves. The series is called “Blue Poppy”, in which I look at one flower at different times of the day.

Here you can see the the first sketch on paper and how it transforms into a hand painted silk with satin sheen with hand rolled edge with silk thread fnishing.

Each silk scarf is a unique piece, an essential accessory that would complement any outfit and can be worn many ways.

This series is dedicated to my dear friend and soul mate Anna T.

I hope you found this piece informative, now that you are here   lets stay connected. 

 

Source information with gratitude from augustman.com/sg/entertainment/culture/design/everything-to-know-about-batik-from-its-history-to-its-use-in-modern-times/amp